September is Life Insurance Awareness Month!

26 09 2011

http://www.nationwide.com/life-insurance-comparison.jsp

Life Insurance Basics From Nationwide

Not sure if you need life insurance coverage? You’re in the right place. A life insurance policy can help replace your income and pay for things like housing, living expenses and educational costs in the case of an unexpected death. Our helpful online resources provide plenty of solid life insurance information, so you can understand the type of coverage that you may need to meet your needs, life and budget.

What to consider with your life insurance coverage

If you’re thinking about life insurance products, here are some questions you should be asking:

Why Nationwide for Life Insurance?

You may think of Nationwide as simply a big company selling insurance and financial products. But we’re actually in the solutions business. We work hard to provide solutions for you and your family’s needs with personalized and professional service.

Our insurance and financial products help meet the real needs of real people. We insure everything from cars, boats and snowmobiles to homes, businesses and, of course, the lives of our customers.

Helping protect your family and the things that are valuable to you has been our mission for 80 years − and we take it seriously.

Please take a few minutes to read about our products. Then talk to an insurance agent or investment professional to learn how Nationwide can fit into your life.

We think you’ll see that we can help you find easier and more affordable solutions to your needs.





Puzzle, See what you can get

30 08 2011

1. Bake / 5th letter

2. Your “ticker” / Nation

3. Golf ball holder/ Mug

4. 4th letter / Exam

5. Ruined / Hair in knots

6. Above Neck / Musical group

7. House / Nauseous

8. 18th letter / ____, Myself and I

9. Startle / 5th letter

10. Turn round and round / What you scratch

Directions: Take the two clues and make one word. Example- First clue is BAKE so the first part of the answer would be COOK. Second clue is the 5th letter which is an “E”. So the answer would be COOKIE! .





Scan our QR with barcode scanner on your smart phone to learn all about us!

25 08 2011





Insurance DO’s and DON’Ts pertaining to home insurance

26 07 2011

DO

  1. Recognize that underinsurance after a total loss is a very common problem. Many homeowners find themselves underinsured after a total loss even though they followed their agent or insurer’s recommendations. If you find yourself in this position, get educated and enforce your rights. The promise of security that insurers advertise and sell is part of the contract you paid for. It’s up to you to enforce your rights under that contract.
  2. Establish a contact at a reputable insurance company, agent or broker’s office that is qualified and authorized to advise you on properly insuring your home. The advice you’ll get from an agent that only represents one insurance company will be different from the advice you’ll get from an “independent” agent or broker that represents several competing companies.
  3. Be specific that you want to make sure your home is properly insured and that you want to buy full replacement coverage. Many agents fear that if they tell you the true cost of fully insuring your home you will go elsewhere to find a cheaper policy. Be clear that you will pay a fair premium for full replacement coverage and insist you don’t want to gamble or underinsure your home.
  4. Answer all questions truthfully so the insurance company knows the size of your home, other structures, the style of construction, major improvements, unusual features and your high value personal property items.
  5. Follow the insurer, agent or broker’s recommendations on increasing or maintaining your limits. Get and keep a record of the insurer, agent, or broker’s confirmation that your limits are adequate.
  6. For extra security, buy the highest percentage replacement cost endorsement you can afford. This is a “fudge factor”. If you suffer a major loss and it turns out your insurer set your limits too low, this endorsement is designed to bridge the gap. Replacement cost endorsements are sold as percentage amounts above your stated dwelling limits. Most insurers offer 25-100% above limits. Shop around for this important protection.
  7. Figure out the cost to replace your contents and adjust your policy limits accordingly. Some items such as jewelry, art items and collectibles may be better insured if they’re specifically listed in your policy contract. This is known in the industry as “scheduling.” Scheduled personal property items are listed with separate coverage limits in a document that becomes part of the policy contract.
  8. Make sure you have enough contents coverage. A replacement cost endorsement that increases your dwelling limits may not also increase your contents limits. Most insurers set the limits for your possessions, (“contents”) as a percentage of the limits on your dwelling. Contents limits are typically set at 50-75% of dwelling limits. Most insurers sell a replacement cost endorsement that only increases dwelling limits. This means your contents limits will stay at the amount stated on your “declarations page” even if the replacement cost endorsement kicks in to increase your dwelling limits. A few insurers sell a policy that allows both dwelling and contents limits to increase. If yours doesn’t, make sure you get confirmation that your limits in all categories are high enough or buy coverage elsewhere.
  9. Make sure your policy offers adequate coverage for building code upgrades. The safest bet is full building code upgrade coverage, which is available from companies such as Fireman’s Fund, Safeco, Chubb, and Allied. Most other insurers offer either an extra 10% for building code upgrade coverage or a flat $25,000.
  10. Your Additional Living Expense (ALE) limits should cover rent, etc. for at least two years after a total loss. Many companies require you to use your ALE coverage within 12 or 24 months after a loss, even if you haven’t exhausted the limits. This can be a problem because it always takes longer to rebuild than you anticipate, especially in a disaster area. If your insurer only offers 12 months of ALE, consider switching to a competitor. You may not have to pay a lot more for better ALE coverage. If your insurer offers a fixed dollar amount with no time limitation, divide that amount by 24 months to compare the coverage. Some policies refer to ALE as “Loss of Use.”
  11. Make sure you tell your agent about improvements to your home. Most carriers require you to report any renovations costing $5,000 or more.
  12. Take steps to make your home eligible for better, cheaper coverage. To qualify for the best coverage, homeowners need a newer roof, updated plumbing, wiring, heating system, and a bolted foundation. Ask your agent what you can to do to lower your risk of loss.
  13. Opt for higher deductibles. Increasing your will lower your premium. You’re generally better off paying small claims out of pocket anyway, especially until insurance regulators reign in “use it and lose it”. “Use it and Lose It” refers to some insurers’ recent practice of refusing to renew the policies of customers who file claims. This allows insurers to continue to collect premiums but shrink payouts by discouraging customers from filing claims…use your insurance, lose your insurance!
  14. Avoid extra headaches after a loss: Photograph or videotape your home and contents and store copies of the photos or the negatives off-premises.
  15. If your agent contacts you at renewal time to review your coverages, spend time with him or her discussing your policy limits and insist again that you want to make sure you’re fully insured.
  16. To be extra safe, check the dwelling limit (“Coverage A”) that appears in your policy against what you know about your home and construction costs in your area. If they don’t match, ask your agent or insurer to explain why they don’t. Contact reputable homebuilders in your area to determine the current range of per square foot construction prices for your type and size home. Apply that range to your home; add at least 15-20% to account for future price increases and post-disaster price spikes and compare it with the dwelling limits your insurance company has set. Discuss and resolve any discrepancies with your insurer, agent or broker.
  17. Double check the formula your agent or insurer used to set your dwelling limits (“Coverage A”). Ask the agent or insurer to send you a copy of the worksheet he or she used to calculate the cost to rebuild your home. Some insurers give their agents worksheets that are designed for calculating homes less than 3,000 square feet with newer construction. These worksheets may cause homes that have unique characteristics or higher quality of materials to be underinsured. If your home is large enough, your insurer may send out an appraiser, and if they do, make sure you get a copy of the appraiser’s report.

DON’T

  1. Don’t rely on the purchase, appraised or estimated sale price of your home to set your dwelling limits. That is not predictive of the cost to rebuild.
  2. Don’t be penny-wise and pound-foolish by buying the lowest priced homeowners policy. Your home is your biggest asset – make sure it’s covered.
  3. Don’t understate the size and amenities of your home to get a lower premium quote.
  4. Don’t underestimate your personal possessions. You’ll be surprised how much it costs to replace what you had if you suffer a major loss.
  5. Don’t be afraid to switch insurers to get a better policy. Loyalty doesn’t benefit you in this context. Many homeowners pay premiums to an insurer for 20 years without ever filing a claim, but when they suffer a major loss and find themselves underinsured – that customer loyalty doesn’t matter. Don’t expect your insurer to reward you by increasing your limits without a fight, just because you’ve been a long time customer. It just doesn’t happen.
  6. Don’t wait until after a loss to get appraisals of valuables. Do store copies off-premises.




Nationwide Helps Those in Need

11 07 2011

Fighting hunger in Tennessee

——————————————————————————–

6/29/11 – Last month, South Central regional associates and their families took part in a mobile food pantry for the Second Harvest Food Bank of Middle Tennessee. The team spent several hours on a warm Saturday morning packing food bags for more than 270 families in the community.

“It was great to be able to spend time talking with families and getting to know them,” said Mason Green, senior personal lines underwriter in the South Central region. Mason was one of more than a dozen associates who volunteered at the mobile pantry.

Second Harvest Food Bank of Middle Tennessee is one of the largest food banks and food distribution centers in the U.S. They provide food and personal care products to more than 400 non-profit partner agencies in 46 counties in Middle and West Tennessee. These partner agencies include food pantries, soup kitchens, shelters, foster care facilities, senior centers, group homes, and youth enrichment programs.

In support of Nationwide’s continued partnership with Feeding America, Paul Robinson, operations director for the South Central region, presented Second Harvest Food Bank of Middle Tennessee with a $30,000 check from the Nationwide Foundation.

“We’re pleased to be able to support Second Harvest on their mission to wipe out hunger,” said Paul.

The $30,000 grant represents a portion of $1 million in funds donated in May by the Nationwide Insurance Foundation to Feeding America. These funds were donated to 21 food banks across the country, including Second Harvest of Middle Tennessee.

To show their appreciation to Nationwide, Second Harvest recently renamed one of their regional office’s conference rooms “The Nationwide Insurance Conference Room.”

“We look forward to our continued partnership with Second Harvest,” said Paul. “It’s one more way we’re able to be On Your Side for thousands of people in our communities.”





Summer Driving Tips to Save Your Car

28 06 2011

Tips for Summer Road Trips

Ah, the thrill of summer and the open road. Speakers blasting tunage, a cooler of refreshing (nonalcoholic) beverages on the passenger side of your lovingly maintained classic Mustang ragtop, nothing but heat shimmer and possibility for miles and miles. What could go wrong?

Lots. Rewind that reverie to minivan and screaming kids. Add a day’s sweltering layover at Waldo’s World of Water Pumps, and your vision of summertime bliss has blossomed into torrid nightmare. With summer vacations coming up, here are some tips to make it more likely you’ll be watching miles of scenery unspool, instead of checking your credit limits from the pay phone of a garage 30 miles from the nearest cell tower.

Before you set out, make sure your car’s ready for the mileage, heat and loads you plan to inflict on it.

Where the rubber meets the road. Check your tires, including the spare, for uneven or excessive tread wear and proper inflation. If they’re bad, replace. If low, inflate. Not only does proper pressure help you avoid blowouts, it also improves handling and fuel efficiency. Check frequently on the road, too. (Correct pressures for your vehicle and load are typically noted on the driver-side door or door jamb.)

Don’t get hosed. Belts drive your air conditioner (vital for comfort) and alternator (vital to forward movement). Belts and hoses also circulate the water that prevents your car from overheating. Inspect belts for wear and cracks, and check hoses for blisters and softness. Better yet, have your mechanic do it. If these vital rubber parts are more than a couple of years old, you might want to replace them anyway. An ounce of prevention is worth avoiding an unplanned hike through Death Valley.

Hydrate or die. Summer sure can work up a thirst, right? Your car thinks so, too. Give it the fluids it needs to stay cool. And while you’re at it, keep in mind that antifreeze is just as crucial in hot conditions as in winter. The ideal mix if half water, half antifreeze. You can check this with a simple and inexpensive antifreeze tester, or ask your mechanic.

De-soil your oil. You won’t do well if you live on the scrapings from a fast-food fry vat. So why expect your car to work well on dirty oil? Don’t just check the oil before your trip, change it. It’s a cheap way to avoid a costly breakdown. Consider, too, that the combination of summer temperatures, high speeds, heavy loads and long hauls can really heat your oil up. That means it flows more easily and protects moving metal parts less effectively. So while you’re at it, you might want to go for a heavier grade of oil than you would in winter. Check your manual and ask your mechanic first, though, to see what weight is right for your vehicle and driving conditions.

Basic tow care. Before you hook up a trailer, check the manual to make sure you vehicle can handle the added weight. And towing capacity is only half the story. Make sure you operate within the speed limits for the trailer.

Be prepared. Create an emergency kit with a flashlight, extra batteries, a jug of water, flares or reflective triangles, paper towels, nonperishable food, jumper cables, gloves, a first-aid kit and commonly used tools. Finally, keep your cell phone charged just in case you need it.





How the heck did he get in there??

9 06 2011

 





7 Solutions for Sticky Driving Situations

6 06 2011

You’re Lost

Don’t panic! Pull over to a safe spot. Then pull out your map. Look for a main road and drive toward it. Once you reached a marked street or intersection, pull over again and use your cell phone to call someone at your destination. Tell them where you are. and ask them to help you get back on track.

You’re Out of Gas

If you think your running out of gas, turn on your hazard lights and pull over. (This will keep you from  having to push.) If you don’t have roadside assistance, call a friend. Ask them to bring or buy a gas can, fill it up and bring it to you. As a general rule, always keep a quarter tank of gas in your car. Then you’ll prevent this situation all together.

You’re Locked Out

Double-check that every things really locked before you freak out. Call roadside assistance if you have it. If you don’t, call a locksmith. (It’s a good idea to go ahead and have a number handy in your phone.) No matter what you do, DON”T break a window! Believe it or not, a window repair costs twice as much as an unlock service.

You’re Driving in Slippery Conditions

Slow down. Keep a safe distance between you and the car in front of you. And if you find yourself starting to skid, turn the wheel in the direction you’re skidding. (Sounds weird, but it works.) And don’t slam on the breaks, it’ll lock up your breaks, then you’re really in trouble.

You’ve got a Flat Tire

At the first sign of tire trouble, grip the wheel tightly. Turn on your hazard lights and slow the car down gradually as you move into the breakdown lane. Attempt to change the tire only if you can do it without putting yourself in danger. Otherwise, call for help.

You’ve had an Accident

First things first: get to a safe place. Then call the police- no matter what. Don’t consider simply exchanging information with the other person involved. Take a photo of the accident with your cell phone or camera. Then let the police take it from there. Unfortunately there are many crooks out there that will give you false information. If you have police there to witness it, you’re more likely to get the right information.

You’ve been Pulled Over

Stay in your car and wait for the officer to approach you. Take out  your insurance card, driver’s license and registration when the officer asks for them. And prepare to swallow your pride. After all, it always pays to be polite.

Keep these things with you in the car at all times.

  • Road atlas
  • Cell phone and Charger
  • Locksmith’s phone number
  • Roadside assistance phone number
  • Disposable camera (If no camera phone)
  • Insurance card
  • Driver’s license
  • Vehicle registration (Preferably in your wallet)
  • Tire changing kit
  • Blanket
  • Flashlight (With working batteries)
  • Water

And if you ever need help and have no one else to call, call your agent.

We are more than happy to help.

615-889-3640

 





Tips that may help you if you get pulled over by a Police Officer

1 06 2011

You’re cruising along in a 35-mph zone, maybe going a bit too fast, when you spot the telltale police-cruiser lights in your rearview mirror. No matter what you do, you’re probably going to get a warning or a citation. But what can you do to keep an unwelcome experience from becoming more of a hassle?

Pull over promptly. That means all the way to the right – and stop. Don’t drive a half-mile while you ponder if the officer is really signaling you. If you’re not the offender, you can go on your way; if you are, you’ve at least started out on the right foot. Besides, in many states you can be cited if you fail to pull over and stop promptly. And always remember to use your turn indicators if you must cross lanes of traffic while pulling over.

Reassure the officer. Keep your hands in sight (preferably on the steering wheel) as the officer approaches. If it’s dark or stormy, turn on your dome light. Roll your window down, especially if you have highly tinted glass. This isn’t about a power struggle; too many officers have been killed or injured during routine traffic stops gone awry.

Hand over your documents. Cops are looking for the Big Three: license, registration and proof of insurance. Don’t make the officer sort through a loose bundle or an envelope full of oil-change receipts. Although experts used to recommend keeping your registration and insurance card attached to one another in your glove box, it’s smarter these days to keep your registration in your wallet – with your license – in case your car is stolen. When it comes to showing your license, take it out of your wallet instead of leaving it under the plastic cover. Although rare, some police officers have been accused of pilfering cash. That’s why they typically won’t accept your wallet, even if it’s flipped open to your license. Besides, wallets don’t attach easily to police clipboards.

Be respectful. Answer questions politely. If you’re wondering why the officer wants to know if you wear contacts, it’s not personal: It’s that “corrective lenses” box that you checked at the license agency last year. Officers are obligated to make sure you’re operating your vehicle under the conditions your license requires. Save your arguments for court. Sure, you can offer clarifications if they’re relevant – for instance, you’re a doctor on the way to emergency surgery. But engaging in a dispute over the “rolling stop” or challenging the calibration of the radar gun won’t score any points, and it won’t stop the officer from issuing a citation. You should also avoid the really toothless excuses: ignorance of the law, or the fact that everyone else was driving 85. The officer saw you breaking a law that’s on the books – not someone else, and not a law written in invisible ink.

Don’t be a chatterbox. Refrain from launching into long stories, telling your cousin’s latest jokes or trying to become the officer’s friend. The traffic stop is not your local watering hole or a speed-dating session. On the other hand, if the officer engages in small talk, it can’t hurt to follow suit. There’s a chance you’ll get off with a warning – or that you’ll just go on your way sooner.





Cicadas

25 05 2011

A cicada (play /sɪˈkdə/ or /sɪˈkɑːdə/) is an insect of the order Hemiptera, suborder Auchenorrhyncha, in the superfamily Cicadoidea, with large eyes wide apart on the head and usually transparent, well-veined wings. There are about 2,500 species of cicada around the world, and many remain unclassified. Cicadas live in temperate to tropical climates where they are among the most widely recognized of all insects, mainly due to their large size and unique sound. Cicadas are often colloquially called locusts,[1] although they are unrelated to true locusts, which are a kind of grasshopper. Cicadas are related to leafhoppers and spittlebugs.

Cicadas are benign to humans in normal circumstances and do not bite or sting in a true sense, but may in fact bite after mistaking a person’s arm or other part of their body as a tree or plant limb and attempt to feed.[2] Cicadas have a long proboscis under their head that they use for feeding on tree sap, and if they attempt to inject it into a person’s body it can be painful, but is in no other way harmful. This sting is not a defensive reaction and should not be mistaken for aggression; it is extremely uncommon, and usually only happens when they are allowed to rest on a person’s body for an extended amount of time.

Cicadas can cause damage to several cultivated crops, shrubs, and trees, mainly in the form of scarring left on tree branches while the females lay their eggs deep in branches.[3][4] Many people around the world regularly eat cicadas; the female is prized, as it is meatier. Cicadas have been (or are still) eaten in Ancient Greece, China, Malaysia, Burma, Latin America, and the Congo. Shells of cicadas are employed in the traditional medicines of China.[5]

The name is a direct derivation of the Latin cicada, meaning “tree cricket”. There is no word of proper English, or indeed Germanic, etymology for the insect. In classical Greek, it was called a tettix, and in modern Greek tzitzikas—both names being onomatopoeic.

Male cicadas have loud noisemakers called “tymbals” on the sides of the abdominal base. Their “singing” is not the stridulation (where one structure is rubbed against another) of many other familiar sound-producing insects like crickets: the tymbals are regions of the exoskeleton that are modified to form a complex membrane with thin, membranous portions and thickened “ribs”. Contracting the internal tymbal muscles produces a clicking sound as the tymbals buckle inwards. As these muscles relax, the tymbals return to their original position producing another click. The interior of the male abdomen is substantially hollow to amplify the resonance of the sound. A cicada rapidly vibrates these membranes, and enlarged chambers derived from the tracheae make its body serve as a resonance chamber, greatly amplifying the sound. The cicada modulates the sound by positioning its abdomen toward or away from the substrate. Additionally, each species has its own distinctive “song”.[1]

Average temperature of the natural habitat for this species is approximately 29 °C (84 °F). During sound production, the temperature of the tymbal muscles was found to be slightly higher.[10] Cicadas like heat and do their most spirited singing during the hotter hours of a summer day, in a roughly 24 hour cycle.

Although only males produce the cicadas’ distinctive sound, both sexes have tympana, which are membranous structures used to detect sounds and thus the cicadas’ equivalent of ears. Males can disable their own tympana while calling.[11]

Some cicadas produce sounds up to 120 dB (SPL)[11] “at close range”, among the loudest of all insect-produced sounds.[12] This is especially notable as their song is technically loud enough to cause permanent hearing loss in humans, should the cicada sing just outside the listener’s ear (unlikely). Conversely, some small species have songs so high in pitch that the noise is inaudible to humans.[13] Species have different mating songs to ensure they attract the appropriate mate. It can be difficult to determine from which direction(s) cicada song is coming, because the low pitch carries well and because it may, in fact, be coming from many directions at once, as cicadas in various trees all raise one another to make noise in unison. Although relatively loud, cicada song can be comforting and even hypnotic at times, as it is at its loudest during the hottest time of an already hot day.

In addition to the mating song, many species also have a distinct distress call, usually a somewhat broken and erratic sound emitted when an individual is seized. A number of species also have a courtship song, which is often a quieter call and is produced after a female has been drawn by the calling song.

After mating, the female cuts slits into the bark of a twig, and into these she deposits her eggs. She may do so repeatedly, until she has laid several hundred eggs. When the eggs hatch, the newly hatched nymphs drop to the ground, where they burrow. Most cicadas go through a life cycle that lasts from two to five years. Some species have much longer life cycles, such as the North American genus, Magicicada, which has a number of distinct “broods” that go through either a 17-year or, in some parts of the world , a 13-year life cycle. These long life cycles perhaps developed as a response to predators, such as the cicada killer wasp and praying mantis.[14][15][16] A predator with a shorter life cycle of at least two years could not reliably prey upon the cicadas.[17]

Cicadas live underground as nymphs for most of their lives, at depths ranging from about 30 cm (1 ft) down to 2.5 m (about 8.5 ft). The nymphs feed on root juice and have strong front legs for digging.

In the final nymphal instar, they construct an exit tunnel to the surface and emerge. They then molt (shed their skins) on a nearby plant for the last time and emerge as adults. The abandoned skins remain, still clinging to the bark of trees.